Tinos is one of the larger islands in the Cyclades with a permanent population of 8,000 and over 60 villages. Although Tinos has a prosperous air about it, Tinos still feels relatively undiscovered by tourists and retains an authentic Greek ambience. The island has plenty of the quiet, traditional villages and undiscovered beaches. Tinos is probably most famous for the church of Panayia Evangelistria, a shrine of great fabulosity erected on the site where a miraculous icon with healing powers was found in 1822.

The discovery was made by a local nun just as the War of Independence was just beginning. Some historians have observed that the timing was fortuitous, serving as it did to underscore the longstanding ties between the Greek Orthodox Church and the cause of Greek nationalism. The icon is buried under a display of dazzling jewels at the top of a massive marble staircase.

There are two annual festivals – on March 25th and August 15th – when the icon bearing Virgin’s image is carried in state down to the harbor and the island is inundated with pilgrims.  The landscape of the island is dotted with bell towers, the legacy of a persistent sectarian rivalry between Catholic and Orthodox parishes to build the tallest.

The island has a flourishing folk-art tradition using the abundant local marble. The shops of Tinos town do a roaring trade in religious paraphernalia. After mooring your yacht in the harbor, you can either walk up the hill to the church or crawl on your knees (literally!) to Magaloharis, the street which has been specially padded to facilitate the most devout.

Hikers with stamina might think about continuing past the shrine; then up the stone stairway that climbs through appealing countryside. It's about ninety minutes to the village of Ktikadhos where there is a lovely taverna, Drosia, with a good sea view. Tinos Town itself has a scattering of bars and tavernas – Epineio, Metaxis Mas and Palea Palladha come recommended. There is an Archaeological Museum which houses an amazing sundial from the local Roman sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite, a few miles northwest of Tinos Town. There is a farmer’s market in the main square every morning.